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Men’s Suits | A gentleman's guide
Principles from Melbourne's leading designer and men's stylist
Nothing makes a more immediate fashion impression, than that of the suit you wear – and too often it’s a bad one.
For more than 10 years, I’ve enjoyed the privilege of suiting people from all walks of life. From the celebrity appearances on the red carpet, NBA players on game day, AFL premiers, Groomsmen, and - probably the most memorable - a young man getting ready for his first job interview.
No matter what the occasion, there are some basic questions that I always ask my personal styling customers which ensure they always look their absolute best. Stick to these and you can’t go wrong:
What are you buying the suit for?
Deciding on what suit you purchase shouldn’t start on the shop floor. It’s imperative that you understand what you need the suit for in the first place.
Are you getting married? Is the suit for work and serves as a dual purpose for an upcoming event? Is the suit to be worn in warm climates, colder weather or needs to be trans-seasonal?
Answering these questions is the first step to making the right decisions around colour, fabric, and style.
(Use one-time promo code GCSUIT01 for 10% further discount on any marked price incl. sale items)
What colour and material should you go with?
Depending on where you are with your personal style journey, one of your first considerations should be versatility.
Just because the fashion blogger strutting around Florence on your insta feed is wearing bold, outlandish checks and colours, doesn’t mean you should do the same.
A great place to start is with a medium blue or medium grey suit. These tones generally lend themselves to both day and night, dressing up or down.
When it comes to choosing fabrics, choosing a wool suit will give you the most versatility. Wool can be technical so just be sure the quality sits around the Super 100 – Super 120 range. These are the most durable and cost effective.
Bonus tip: Save cotton blend options for smart casual jackets and pants.
A black suit is your third must have in the wardrobe but should be reserved for specific occasions, like cocktail parties, weddings and funerals.
If you live in Melbourne, however, black will probably work for any occasion!
Get all your basics covered with these staples before you venture further out into more playful colours and styles.
(Shop the Madrid Blue Suit with one-time promo code GCSUIT01 for 10% further discount on any marked price incl. sale items)
How should a suit fit?
Men come in all shapes and sizes but fundamentally a jacket should fit a certain way and so should the pants. If you knew nothing else, making sure the sleeve and trouser lengths are tailored correctly is a massive win.
Sleeves should reveal no more than 1cm of shirt cuff or finish just where your wrist meets your hand, and the trouser length should subtly kiss the top of your shoes.
The jacket should naturally follow the contours of your body, without any signs of stress across the shoulders, chest or waist. Any good tailor or shop assistant can help you with this.
Shoulder seams should never extend beyond your actual shoulders, and avoid excessive padding at all costs.
BEWARE THE CLASSIC SUIT FIT-FAIL: Trying to find a suit that fits really tightly due to some media personality you just saw in your Facebook feed. I see celebrities, with no excuse, mis-wearing (sometimes really expensive) suits… often.
RULE: Always avoid squeezing into anything. If it looks too small, it probably is!
You can also go the other way.
By sticking to a dated look of looser arm holes and baggier pants, you can do yourself a huge disservice. A lot of guys have no idea that they’re looking bigger and sloppier than they actually are.
Ensure you keep these things in mind and get the right tailoring advice from the in-store stylist or suiting professional.
Another key trend in Melbourne at the moment with my younger customers is exposed ankles.
The bare ankle look can make for a stylish break from tradition, especially in the summer months with a linen or cotton suit.
However, never lose sight of who you are with, or why you are there. If you’re going into a boardroom the last thing you’re going to be wearing that day is no-show socks! Unless you work in Silicon Valley, keep it for social circles.
Remember that personal style is about timing and context (and self-awareness).
(If you're thinking of upping your suit game today, use one-time promo code GCSUIT01 and add 10% discount to any marked price incl. sale items)
How to match with the right shoes and shirt.
The most perfectly styled suit can be completely undermined by poor shirt / shoe compliment.
In terms of shoes, if your suit is navy or grey, always stick with brown leather.
Lace-ups and loafers both work as long they aren’t square-toed.
Also, it’s always preferable to have a leather sole shoe if you’re going for a well curated look.
When it comes to dress shirts…
Watch out for ‘pirate sleeves’ (cinched cuffs with baggy arms,) the ‘flying squirrel’ (excess fabric underneath armpits) and ‘muffin tops’ (billowing fabric around the waist).
White is the best-selling colour across the board because it works like a blank canvas. We can’t keep up with the demand for our classic white shirt and it’s a personal favourite of mine. Just make sure it is always washed and well pressed, especially the collar (Don’t lose your collar stays!). There is also nothing worse than yellow stains under the armpits! Time to throw those out and invest in a number of white classic crisp shirts to keep you looking fresh.
I also recommend buying a shirt and tie at the same time as your suit so you can complement the overall look all at once. It is also a great way to get the styling advice from the shop assistant who is usually well versed in what makes a great look.
Another tip is if you’re wearing a pocket square, it should never match the fabric of your tie, and learn how to correctly place it in the pocket. I have had that many people ask how to wear the square correctly that I have made a tutorial video on this topic alone.
(Use one-time promo code GCSUIT01 for 10% further discount on any marked price incl. sale items)
Wrapping your package
At the end of the day a good suit isn’t a cheap suit, but it doesn’t have to break the bank either. You can get great quality and in-season suits in Melbourne from between $500 - $900 that make a sharp first impression.
Born and raised in Melbourne, and I pride myself on always being available to help my customers with the best style advice and fitting expertise.
Feel free to contact me at godwin@godwincharli.com for any question you might have or to book a session with me personally in one of our stores.

godwin charli
Weddings: What to wear when you don’t know what to wear?
The date is final. The honeymoon booked. Now, what to wear? There are a myriad of options these days for grooms & entourage. Some considerations I always ask, is are there many people at the wedding? Is it daytime or nightime? Will you have a band or DJ playing? Larger weddings at night tend to be more formal than daytime weddings & smaller. There are always exceptions to these rules, and it’s all relative. Formal in one family is casual in another and vice versa – however sticking to some easy classic rules is always a safe bet.Our key to getting it right – is keeping it simple & on-message. And while there’s plenty of literature out there on what to do, here’s our view: 1. Cocktail : This is one of those curve-balls that usually confuses. Females usually use cocktail to get quite dressy, however for guys, the secret sits somewhere between formal and really smart casual. While cocktail is your chance to be a little more adventurous than usual – a textured & tailored jacket with crisp white shirt & textured tie with slim-fitting trousers will compliment the bride nicely. Choosing separates is the real key to making Cocktail work for guys. Just make sure that taking the jacket off still leaves you feeling smart - if weather permits. After all, you are the man of the moment. The shirt can (in limited circumstances) be worn without a tie and feel free to be a little adventurous with the hanky/ socks.
2. Hollywood Glamour : Don’t be fooled by this style. This is not your chance to pull out the pine green velvet suit. Just keep it simple. A crisp white jacket, self-tied bow and dinner shirt, completed by tailored black trouser & fruitful hanky, is the perfect partner. Follow it with a polished set of black lace-ups. Not too glam. Not too Bollywood. Just a compliment.
3. Contemporary Black Tie : You’re the groom & it’s your day. Just remember, black tie has been around for many years, now’s not the time to reinvent the rules. Adhere to them, be guided by them, but stick to certain rules that make all the difference. This season we’ve introduced our superfine-wool Navy Tux. It may have been on the scene for some time, however it gives that subtle change from jet black. It also looks spectacular in photos. Complete the outfit with a crisp white dinner shirt (with turn down collar) and self-tie bow. This outfit may just be worn once in a while, but they’re guaranteed to turn heads & last decades.
4. Classic Black Tux : Again, don’t reinvent the wheel. It’s been done and the best who do it today don’t go shooting the lights out. Keep it absolutely on-song with a Super Jet Black dinner suit & you’ll be the star of the show. The key to Black Tux is keeping it crisp, clean and clear of any off-beat notes. Keep it super sharp with the crisp white shirt & tie & a little pochet – you’re on your way to freedom.
5. Beach : is always a tough one. Beach can mean Sorrento on a raining Sunday, Bali with 90% humidity or Mykonos on a 38C crystal clear night. The first thing to figure out is – how hot will it really be? If your answer is hot, damn hot, then stop right there. A simple cotton pant with tailored jacket will be perfect. Cotton linen is a smart alternative in the hotter climates. Accessories, like a beautiful watch, textured belt or braces, crafted leather loafer or flower are lovely accouterments – however the heat will dictate much of your adventure. They’ll all come off eventually when the heat kicks in. So keep your attention to the relaxed pant, good belt with crisp shirt & you’ll be well on your way to keeping fresh & tidy.

fashion
Godwin Charli collaboration with Tudor Watches
Both Tudor & Godwin Charli products live. They pulsate. The high technology in all components is relentlessly tested right down to the smallest detail – to the point of obsession. Exceptional materials, durability, and strength of design make each watch and each garment a unique product.
Mr Hans Wildorf, the founder of Rolex & Tudor, and Godwin Hili, were inspired by a common, simple vision – creating strong identity, unique style and uncompromising quality. By igniting passion, constantly striving to improve and offering products with their own unique identity, both brands collaborate to offer uniquely timeless pieces.
This exclusive collaboration, fuses these core values together. This Spring/Summer 15/16 season is inspired by classic pieces, rejuvenated and re-engineered for the current generation.
View a snippet from the collaboration here:
Tudor Watch Video V1 from Godwin Charli on Vimeo.

fashion
1 Shirt, 4 Jobs, 2 Looks
Jessica Alizzi is a twenty-something-year-old, full-time Commerce/Law student, part-time paralegal, part-time marketing intern, and when-she-has-the-time- fashion blogger.
Most recently Jess snapped up one of our Blanchet Tuxedo Shirts and showcased its versatility in a number of looks that she wore to all 4 of her jobs.

AFL season launch
2015 Western Bulldogs Season Launch
Direct from the Crown Palladium in Melbourne, we bring to you the Western Bulldogs TV coverage of the Godwin Charli red carpet arrivals at the 2015 Season Launch.
Players were presented at the Season Lauanch wearing their tailored Godwin Charli uniforms. All club players, staff and board members attended proudly.
We wish the doggies a great year ahead!

Godwin charli
The Groomsman debate. Who should pay for the suits?
The Groom or the Groomsman... that is the question. Who pays for the Wedding Suits?
Often the conundrum over who pays for wedding suits comes down to the simple answer - what is everyone least uncomfortable with. Pay for suits but not shirts, pay for shirts but not suits, pay nothing, pay something, pay everything - there is no hard & fast rule.
Clearly, if money is not the object, you wouldn’t be reading this. Otherwise - continue.
The Groomsman’s suits are always a special part of the occassion. Let me tell you a secret - most guys don’t care. Couldn’t care less. If they’re in your bridal party, the honor is (usually) theirs.
All they want is to have a good time, be with their mates, have a laugh, beer, whiskey, cigar & enjoy the day. The payment of clothes is simply part of that honor of mateship.
If you ask them to pay, they’ll pay. If you ask them to split it, they will. Only you will know the right answer.
But beware - some do care. Very much. Some are as stingy as a dried crab on a summer’s day.
So what to do? - ask the Boss. That’s right. Ask your fiance, there’s a good chance she’ll know them or their other halves & what the right answer will be. Women have a sixth (or seventh, or eighth) sense about this kind of stuff & they’ll serve you the right answer straight.
Or if there isn’t that connection between her & them, just canvass the best man & ask his opinion. Better to get a no in private than a shun in public.
And another word - have the conversation over way before you enter the store. The store is not the place for surprises - the wedding night is :)
~ Mr Charli

21st Century Financial Summit
Sir Richard Branson
The 21st Century Financial Education Summit rolled in to Melbourne and Godwin Charli was invited to style and dress some of the world’s most successful and renowned entrepreneurs. In preparation for the event, made-to-measure & exclusively designed outfits were produced for both Sir Richard Branson, Founder of the Virgin Group, and Tim Ferris, New York Times best selling author and king blogger.
American Crew
American Crew – Mattemattic Australian Tour
The perfect outfit wouldn’t be complete with out the perfect hair style to match. Working with internationally acclaimed stylist Andrew Zumbo, Godwin Charli took to the runway during this year's American Crew Mattemattic National Tour. Keeping within the theme of tailoring in Black and Navy, models paraded the latest American Crew hair styles. It proved to be a great collaboration to show off the latest trends this Autumn/Winter.